Thursday, February 4, 2016

Shaping Surfboards with Jamie Horsefield

In his father's shed, overlooking his local surf break, 15-year-old Jamie Horsefield works on another creation. I met the young Warrington surfer a year and a half ago, when he knocked on my door one morning and asked if I wanted to get some waves with him. There's nothing like the cheeky enthusiasm of a grommie to get you amping again.

Since then, we've chased heaps of swells together. Usually, my phone will ping beside my bed with another early morning swell update. School holidays seem to be proving a difficult time for me to get much work done.

Friday, January 15, 2016

Our Journey...told from a surfing perspective

I divide my time between surfing, climbing, writing, loving life and a few other peripherals. There is no order or balance to it, but each seems to mesh succinctly into the whole. A mix of randomness here, a few lucky choices there, and I find myself in the middle age well along the journey – to what I'm not entirely sure. But that's the way of risk and reward, isn't it? Adventure starts around the same time as uncertainty...the letting go...the first step. It's a journey that we all have to take, and I'd rather take it consciously then be dragged along by an innate acceptance of what might have been.

Adventure and communication
When people ask what I do, I reply that I write for a living. I realise it's a programmed response, as if our work is the most important thing. But when you think about it, it seems a funny thing to say. What do I do? I do many things, some central to my life and others just as a means of getting by. Work may or may not fit into that category. Surely the question to ask is: What do you look forward to doing?

Friday, January 8, 2016

The Mountains Within

Kiwi poet John Newton once wrote that mountains are 'a story you tell about yourself, a story you are journeying into, which swallows you'. I have referred to them as 'the castles that bind our land firm', allowing me 'to see as never before'.

Having just returned from a trip into the ubiquitous and unrivalled Darran Mountains with my wife Shelley and good friend David 'Stretch' Newstead, I am reminded, yet again, of the poignancy of those observations. In part, my worries are what becomes swallowed by the nearness of summits, stresses of lack of success and finance and future plans soothed in the balm of thin, crisp air and a cloudless sky.

Thursday, May 7, 2015

For Scotty - Alpinist 49

A glacier is like a tree, you said
as I hacked its melting skin
carving glass steps for tourists,
air bubbles escaping folds in the ice

In kaupapa Maori
everything has a story
Ka Roimata o Hinehukatere, they called it
Tears of the Avalanche Girl